"Of course," Giraldin says. "You can't turn away a lady."

Back at the Ivy, Peire is keen to emphasize that his focus is on service not celebrity.

Fair enough, Fernando, but just one more anecdote please.

"Someone rang and said, 'This is Michael White. Do you have a table in 10 minutes?' I didn't recognize the name - he was a producer - but the way he asked meant either that he knew his name carried weight or that he had no idea where he was calling.

"The Ivy was like Rick's Café in Casablanca in those days. Everybody wanted to come.

"I took the risk that he might be our sort of customer, which he was because he arrived with David Bowie and his wife. They looked extraordinary.

"David was wearing a beautiful pink suit. I remember talking to him about how beautiful his shoes were. They were big and pointy and he'd had them hand-made in Switzerland. And Iman had had her hair teased for a photo shoot. It was enormous, like a massive light bulb on her head.

"They were utterly charming and the pair of them cut a real dash.

"They made everybody's night."

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