Wine-Related Treats
So you want to do some wine tourism? Schedule a visit to one of the many negociant shops in Beaune, Dijon, Chablis, or smaller towns to learn the best array of what's available. Keep in mind that many of them charge for tastings, and most have wines they want to hawk. Despite the shortage of wine, some of the larger organizations, such as Patriarche in Beaune, are running in normal fashion and host tastings all day. But you will be warmly welcomed anywhere you go if you have arranged a visit and offered to pay to taste.
Still, the best experiences for a novice wine traveler relate to food and exploration.
If you check in a few weeks in advance, you can arrange a seat at one of Christine Drouhin's intimate, vineyard-side luncheons at Domaine Drouhin-Laroze. The lady of the winery home-cooks such Burgundian delights as boeuf bourguignon and the best Gruyere potatoes au gratin you have ever tasted. She will offer you half-bottles of the winery's mildly spicy reds to accompany the various courses and then lead you on a private tour of the centuries-old wine cellars.
In the wine capital of Beaune, reach out to Domaine Chanson to set up a visit to the gorgeous 18th century mansion near the edge of town. Tour their cool, spiraling wine cellars, which fill a hollowed-out tower that was once part of the ancient city walls. Some rooms date back to the 13th century.
The warm and knowledgeable Catherine Goutorbe will guide you through a tasting of recent highlights such as the garnet-colored Beaune-Bastion Premier Cru 2013, with its dark cherry notes and full body, or the incredible Corton Vergennes Grand Cru 2013, a powerful-for-France Chardonnay with just the right amount of oak.
Where to Eat
With all your drinking and exploring, it's important not to forget to indulge in Burgundy's world-renowned cuisine. You'll not regret making ample time for long lunches and dinners, tasting the local village wine (so you don't break the bank, even as you destroy your diet). Here are some recommendations:
Ma Cuisine: This cafe near the historic center of Beaune is a mecca for winemakers and oenophiles, who assemble there to explore the magnificent wine list and share bottles. Show up early and chat up your neighbors for the latest local gossip, while dining on solid Burgundian fare.
Le Chevreuil: In the tiny, cinematic hamlet of Meursault, this contemporary French restaurant features a hip menu of farm-fresh delights, plus a quiet deck that overlooks vineyards and a beautiful château on the edge of town.