2013 Pheasant’s Tears Rkatsiteli ($20)

Fermented on grape skins like a red, this delicious apricot-y white from the Republic of Georgia is an “orange” wine aged in clay amphoras.

Valdespino Fino Inocente Sherry ($22)

The recent sherry fad revived interest in this unsung fortified wine. This zingy, briny, single-vineyard Fino, with notes of herbs and olives, is a good entry point.

2004 Lopez de Heredia Viña Bosconia Reserva ($37)

This red from Rioja’s most traditional producer has aromas of rose and dried cherries and pure, clear flavors.

2012 Paolo Bea Bianco Santa Chiara ($40)

This unusual, amber-colored wine from a natural-wine movement pioneer is more tannic than a usual white because the pressed juice sits on the skins.

Sweeties

Most sweet wines are expensive, but a half-bottle goes a long way.

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