Where to Tour and Taste
The best way to understand the confusing geography of Barolo’s many crus (single vineyards) and to get an insider peek at harvest is via private helicopter tour. Giovanni Rosso, based in Serralunga d’Alba, now offers 20-minute trips (up to four people at €200 each); because the Rosso family also owns a small award-winning wine estate nearby, you’ll get a running commentary on picking, winemaking, and terroir.
During the busy harvest season, you can assume that most wineries will require appointments.
Some of the best producers are clustered in the village of Barolo, where winding streets climb to the magnificent Castello di Barolo, home to a wine museum and the regional enoteca, where you can taste.
Just down the street is the E. Pira-Chiara Boschis winery; Boschis is one of the top women winemakers in Barolo, making three exceptional single vineyard bottlings. GD Vajra is a very welcoming traditional family winery, making wines of great finesse.
In La Morra, Elio Altare makes stellar Barolos; a tour will include Elio’s private cave of salumi.
The art and architecture-conscious Ceretto family welcome visitors to their wineries for special tastings of older vintages (€60 and up). Don’t miss the Cube, a futuristic glass tasting room overlooking the vineyards at their Bricco Rocche winery, near Castiglione Falletto, or the colorful chapel painted by Sol Lewitt and David Trimlett, near La Morra.
Flavors of the Earth
But you can’t visit Barolo and just taste wine. Dig deep into truffledom.
From Oct. 8 to Nov. 27, Alba is the site of the 86th world-famous white truffle festival). Though street carts in Alba display the creamy-beige lumps, browsing the official Mercato di Tartufo in a huge white tent is a must. Truffle hunters hawk their finds, from button-sized examples to ones the size of a child’s fist, for €20 to several hundred euros. Prod, sniff, and then haggle.