There is just one commercial ancestral blend available at the moment: Grans Muralles. The wine includes both Garró and Querol and it’s served at a Torres restaurant in Barcelona, by the glass for 35 euros ($41) or by the bottle for 150 euros. The price drops to 130 euros per bottle if you purchase it to go, in the restaurant’s retail shop.

Pressing circumstances—the bad news in California, Chile and France, for example—keep shifting Torres's sense of the industry. But he is eying Australia's $5 billion wine market, where—according to a 2013 study—73 percent of now-viable vineyards will be unusable by 2050. When he speaks of his business strategy, he adopts an almost-wistful tone.

"Imagine it: wine in Patagonia! The vineyards will continue," he said. The key is making the transition to more robust grapes immediately. The time, Torres said, is now.

This article was provided by Bloomberg News.

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