Each day is like being on safari: I’ll do two or three naturalist-led activities—maybe a beach walk past sunbathing sea lions, followed by a boulder hike—then allow myself free time for snorkeling, paddleboarding, or kayaking. A cool thing about the Galapagos is that you rarely see other ships pass, let alone tourists, on the remote islands. (You see them in the populated areas.)

Two guides on each yacht means I’d never be with more than 10 of my fellow passengers. I’m fine with those numbers. I enjoy companionship. I see no reason to splurge an additional $2,000 on Econventura’s upgraded package, which includes a private guide.

Learning from the animals
Humans were first recorded arriving in the Galapagos in 1535, when a Spanish ship was blown off course. Onboard was the Bishop of Panama, who reported a place with weird, unafraid creatures. The animals are still that way.

Sea lions, including mothers with their pups, lounge by the dozens on beaches, unbothered when you walk by. (I want to learn to lounge as peacefully as a sea lion.) A frigate bird ignores your presence and puffs out his red chest to show he’s a catch for any nearby female. Five penguins paddle past, oblivious to your snorkeling.

Some creatures will approach to check you out, as my sea lion friend did on my previous trip. You may find yourself in view of a dozen species at any given time, with an eerie feeling that they all have their eyes on you.

If I’m to be truthful, it does get a bit boring after a while—too much of a good thing—but I look at going back as if visiting an old friend. And as tempting as it is to bring a girlfriend again, perhaps I’ll introduce my husband to the magic this time. (He might learn a thing or two from the horny frigates!)

When they can get back into the field, scientists will look into whether the animals were affected by the absence of humans during the Covid-19 pandemic. There’s no question the critters will have survived—but did they miss us?

Focused on preserving the island’s biodiversity and best known for its giant tortoise conservation program, the Charles Darwin Foundation manages more than 20 scientific research projects, including monitoring ecological changes.

This article was provided by Bloomberg News.

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