Everyone, including me, loves a bargain, especially when it comes to wine. My definition of “bargain?” A wine that tastes at least twice as good as its price, preferably more.
I’m hardly alone. One of the most important findings in this year’s Silicon Valley Bank Wine Report, out last week, is that millennials (aged 22 to 37) are not embracing fine wines as much as they’d been predicted to do as they got older. Part of the problem is surely financial. They’re held back by an “indulgence gap,” a delay of peak earning, says Rob McMillan, SVB’s executive vice president and author of the annual report. Often mired in student debt, millennials want high-quality, interesting wines, but at a less-than-premium price. McMillan refers to them as “frugal hedonists.”
Meanwhile, self-indulgent, wealthier boomers are beginning to retire and—you guessed it—they want to spend less for top-quality wine, too.
But unless producers put their wine in tetra paks, cans, or bag-in-box formats, some fixed costs—such as glass bottles—can’t be reduced all that much.
So how low can you really go without sinking into a pool of complete plonk? From my tastings this year, I’d say it’s tough to find wines worth drinking at under $10 a bottle. But the real sweet spot, where there are dozens and dozens of good buys, is $15 to $20. Here are my current hot picks from around the world.
WHITES
2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling ($10) This crisp, refreshing, versatile white from Washington state is ubiquitous—and one of the best super-cheap wines I know. It regularly wins blind tastings, surprising all the judges.
2016 Bodega Colome Torrontes ($12) Intensely aromatic, this light white has vibrant citrus flavors and a salty mouthwatering deliciousness. It comes from vines grown at an elevation of 5,500 feet in Argentina’s Salta region and pairs well with spicy food.
2017 Yalumba The Y Series Viognier Eden Valley ($12) It’s not easy to find a really good, inexpensive viognier. This one from Australia has the right honey and floral aromas, hints of spicy ginger, and a lush, creamy texture.
2016 Famille Hugel Gentil ($14) This is an amazingly food-friendly dry white from the underrated French region of Alsace. It’s an easygoing, complex blend of six grape varieties that brims with zingy acidity.
2016 Foxglove Chardonnay ($15)The second label of the Varner winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains consistently offers one of California’s great values. The smooth, citrusy chardonnay from the Edna Valley isn’t aged in oak, but still has richness and texture.