“We’ll reprune some vines, but we won’t learn the truth of the vineyard until 2021,” says Cain’s Howell. If the damage is only from smoke, they may recover for the next growing season.
If not, pulling out vines, obtaining plants from nurseries, and then re-planting would take two to three years, Howell says, which could cost anywhere from $50,000 to $85,000 an acre. And for top cabernet, vines must be at least five—even seven—years old before the grapes can be used.
A Dark Outlook
Thousands were under mandatory evacuation, including Calistoga, much of St. Helena, and wineries on the east and west hillsides. As of Monday, residents are returning to Calistoga at their own risk. The evacuation area is being extended both south and north.
Many vintners can’t gain access to see whether their wineries have survived. They need to check on fermenting wine, turn on generators to make sure that barrel cellars of cabernet are staying cool, or pick the remaining grapes, much of it cabernet, that are still on the vines.
From their home in Connecticut, Denise and Steve Adams, owners of boutique winery Adamvs on Howell Mountain, had to organize the rescue of two dozen chickens, six sheep, and a donkey named Buttercup that are part of their biodynamic farming practices.
The winery is known for its rich cabernets, but Denise Adams isn’t planning on producing any 2020 cabernet. “We’ll have some sauvignon blanc and a bit of pinot noir,” she says. “We’re not making cabernet because of smoke taint. That happened in 2017, too.”
Many vintners are posting on Instagram to let others know whether they’re all right. Constellation Brands, a giant that owns Robert Mondavi winery and cult brand Schrader, reports that all of its properties and employees are fine with 70% of harvest completed, though the company continues to test grapes for smoke impact.
“The land and vegetation are so dry,” emailed Daphne Araujo of Accendo Cellars, “that wind is throwing flying embers as large as grapefruits high in the air in every direction.” Over the weekend, Cal Fire warned of windy, dangerous weather conditions. Now a mixed forecast includes the possibility of a tiny bit of rain—and possibly, dry lightning.
Kenward is trying to keep a positive outlook. The rays of sunlight, he says, are the 2019 cabernets aging in barrel. “We’ll get through this,” he predicts.
This article was provided by Bloomberg News.