2006 Kreglinger Vintage Brut Rosé ($50)
Of 22 Tasmanian sparkling wines I tasted, this all-pinot noir cuvée really impressed me. Complex, powerful, and loaded with smoky fruit, it has a long, long finish.
2015 Kooyong Estate Pinot Noir ($54)
Mornington Peninsula, the weekend playground for Melbourne’s elite, is home to dozens of pinot makers. Kooyong makes a range of subtle, earthy, savory examples; this one tastes of dark cherry and spice.
2015 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay ($55)
Super bright and lemony but also stylish and complex, this white from a famous vineyard in Tasmania is also flinty and precise.
2016 Ochota Barrels the Fugazi Vineyard Grenache ($65)
Once a member of a punk band, winemaker Taras Ochota named this wine for post-hardcore punk band Fugazi. It has a rush of tangy-tart red fruit, glossy texture that reminds you of pinot noir, and aromas of rose petals and spice.
2016 Mayer Syrah ($100)
This wonderfully vivid red from the cool Yarra Valley is spicy and super elegant, complex and savory, with a gorgeous silkiness. Mayer also makes top pinots and an excellent nebbiolo.